Engine problems

The engine for some reason wouldn't now start. It was starting well a few weeks ago. Using the (on the road) how to make it start fault finder routine (which I summarised in a word document) I first checked to see if there is a spark at the spark plugs –answer no. This indicates there is a fault with the ignition system, as opposed to the fuel system.

Did the following:

1.    Cleaned the spark plugs. They were quite dirty and corroded on the outside (used the wire-brush buffer). Noticed that the plug from cylinder 6 is very oily –I suspect number 6 may be the cause of the smoke problem, certainly high on the suspect list.

2.    Checked the points. Look OK. I adjusted the gap and go Carol to turn the engine.  I couldn’t see anything wrong.

3.    Checked the distributer cap and rotor –fine.

4.   Remove all the spark plug leads and distributor cap and took to the kitchen table for a thorough inspection. Found one potential issue. The contacts on the inside of the distributer cap where the spark plug lead plug in were quite corroded. Cleaned them up with screwdriver, emery paper, cotton buds etc. until the contacts were shiny.

5.    Checked the electrodes in the distributor cap which looked fine.

6.    Put it all back together. I had problems starting. Battery seemed low. It then didn’t turn at all. The only cause I could think of (i.e. since playing with the HT leads) was the battery earth strap attaching to the head. So I undid the bolt again and put the washer under the earth strap and then re-attached and fastened tighter. Hooked up the jumper leads to the falcon and away the old girl went again. So the conclusion to the overall problem was that the HT lead connections in the distributer cap were so corroded that it failed to spark altogether. There was a similar issue with the HT lead to the coil which potentially was the main cause.  Maybe I should get a new distributor cap which will fully solve the problem.

7.    Although the engine now runs it runs rough. A few observations are:

a.      Black liquid initially came out of the exhaust. Clue maybe? Is oil somehow getting into the exhaust system and heating up and generating smoke?

b.      Oil is seeping down the block from the head. Is there a problem with the head gasket?

c.       The engine fumes smelt very rich. The mixture adjustment screw on the carburettor does not seem the change the way the engine runs. Does the carburettor need overhauling?

d.      I disconnected the spark plug lead one at a time however this didn’t seem to make much difference to how much blue smoke came out. This indicates it is more than one cylinder at fault.

Getting the engine sorted is number one priority so I need to undergo a number of tests to see if I can figure out the problem. Maybe it will be easiest to just remove the head.

Underneath the car

I took a lot of photos and video under the car today. This is so I can assess what needs to be done. A few observations hit me right away:

• The condition under the car generally is quite poor in a lot of places. The front of the car is not so bad because the dog box has been off in the last 10-15 years and the engine taken out and then put back in. Things at the rear of the car are very dirty, rusty and there are obvious holes in the bottom of the body in places. Maybe a good old clean (perhaps with a water blaster or air blaster) would help or are we talking a body off clean-up.
• The fuel line is much corroded. The fuel tank looks straight forward to remove. So I think it would be a good idea to remove the fuel tank, inspect and clean, then remove and replace the fuel line all the way from the tank to the engine. I know the line is sucking air and looking at the state of the line it is certain there will be impurities getting into the fuel before it hit the carburator. That is fuel block city.

• A handbrake cable bracket is dangling

 

• The chassis is slightly damaged (bent) at the point on the right hand side where the exhaust pipe travels through it. 

More about brakes

I jacked the car up in the rear and removed the right rear hub for inspection. I concluded from the inspection the following:

• The brake cylinder may be OK however the rubber boots are perished and things a generally quite dirty and rusty. The brake shoes will need to be removed to fit the rear brake cylinder. I have already discovered that the bleeder valve was seized and the 3/8”spanner is unable to grip the hexagon so maybe it is burred or else an odd size.

• The brake shoes look straight forward to remove however not so in practice. Tried removing the spring with hawk-beaks however the spring is way too strong and under tension so definitely need to research technique and tools required for this job.
• There is no break hose on the right rear. The brake line attaches directly to the back of the rear wheel cylinder. On the other side (left) however there is a brake hose which attaches between the brake line and the rear wheel cylinder. I need to research if this it right or not. The brake hoses on the front look new?
• The brake line running from the right rear over the diff to the centre joiner is copper therefore not likely to be rusty. The line is dirty however probably in good condition. The centre joiner however is a different story and looks very corroded so should be replaced. It may even be a challenge getting it to unscrew.  Probably best is dismantle, remove, clean and reinstall all the brake lines. Do this before deciding if it is necessary to buy new brake lines.

• I need to research where I could buy the new brake line joiners?
• The brake shoes should probably be relined while I am about it. I think I have a new set of brake linings (otherwise buy).  I need to esearch how to go about relining the brakes. Do I need any special tools? Where do I find the rivets to attach?
• I intend to bath the brake drums, shoes, springs etc. in molasses. First I need to figure out how to remove the shoes (see 2 above). When apart I will clean up all the parts, repaint them (when I have decided what chassis paint I will be using) and reassemble spanking new.
• For now I re-attached the wheel hub & wheel so I could get on with engine issues, and in the meantime I will follow up on actions above.